Cats. They are the uncontested owners of docks, piers, harbours and restaurant floors.
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Gaios Harbor
Gaios is the picturesque capital of Paxos, nestled on the island’s east coast. The harbor is naturally sheltered by the islet of Agios Nikolaos, creating a tranquil fjord-like setting. The town boasts charming Venetian-style architecture, narrow streets, and a vibrant waterfront lined with cafes and tavernas. It’s an ideal spot for provisioning, dining, and exploring the island’s rich culture.
Pilotage & Navigation
- Approach: Enter the harbor from the south, navigating the channel between Paxos and Agios Nikolaos islet. The channel is well-marked and straightforward.
- VHF Communication: Port Gaios operates on VHF Channel 12.
- Caution: Be aware of ferry and tripper boat traffic, especially between 10:00 and 17:00 during peak season.
Berthing & Anchoring Options
1. Town Quay (South Quay)
- Mooring: Stern-to with anchor.
- Facilities: Water and electricity available via prepaid cards from local shops.
- Fees: Approximately €2 per meter per night.
- Note: Arrive early, especially in high season, as spaces fill up quickly.
2. North Quay
- Mooring: Stern-to with anchor.
- Restrictions: Reserved for tripper boats between 10:00 and 17:00.
- Availability: Open to yachts outside restricted hours.
3. Anchoring Outside the Harbor
- Location: South of Gaios Bay.
- Conditions: Good holding in sand; suitable for overnight stays.
- Recommendation: Useful when harbor berths are full.
4. New South Pontoon
- There is a new pontoon
- Location: at the S entrance of the bay, near to the hydroplane dock.
- Services: When we visited no water or electricity were available, but work has been planned.
- Fees: Payment via online app.
Services & Facilities
- Water & Electricity: Available on the town quay via prepaid cards.
- Fuel: No fuel dock in Gaios; arrange fuel delivery via local services. (Kontaris Dimitris, +30 6972 214889)
- Provisions: Several mini-markets and bakeries within walking distance.
- Laundry: Services available in town.
- Wi-Fi: Available in many cafes and restaurants.
Useful Contacts
- Port Authority: +30 26620 32259
- Police: +30 26620 32222
- Health Centre: +30 26620 31466
- Doctor (Dr. Costas): +30 26620 32555 / Mobile: +30 697 783 7700
- Pharmacy (Gaios): +30 26620 32200
- 24-Hour Sea Taxi (Gaios): +30 26620 32444 / Mobile: +30 693 223 2072
Cruiser Tips & Recommendations
- Dining: Try “Dodo’s Taverna” for a unique dining experience with a humorous twist.
- Provisioning: Stock up on essentials early in the day to avoid crowds.
- Exploration: Visit the Venetian castle ruins on Agios Nikolaos islet for panoramic views.
- Timing: Plan arrivals and departures outside peak hours (10:00–17:00) to avoid congestion from tripper boats.
- Seasonal Considerations: The harbor can be crowded during July and August. Consider visiting in shoulder seasons for a more relaxed experience.
Gaios offers a blend of natural beauty, cultural charm, and essential amenities. It is a must-visit destination for sailors exploring the Ionian Sea. Enjoy your stay!
Paxos Island
The port of Loggos – Paxos Paxos (or Paxi) is a serene gem in the Ionian Sea, located about 15 km south of Corfu. Despite its modest size—it is approximately 10 km long and 3 km wide. It boasts lush olive groves, dramatic limestone cliffs, and crystal-clear waters. The island’s charm lies in its unspoiled landscapes. Its tranquil villages provide a slower pace of life. This offers a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle.(en.wikipedia.org)
Natural & Geological Features
- Olive Groves: Covering much of the island, these ancient groves contribute to Paxos’s verdant landscape and produce high-quality olive oil.
- Limestone Cliffs: The western coast features towering white cliffs and sea caves, including the famous Blue Caves, accessible only by boat.(visitpaxos.com)
- Beaches: Paxos offers over 30 beaches, mostly pebbled, with clear, turquoise waters. Notable ones include:
- Monodendri Beach: Family-friendly with beach bars and sunbeds.
- Harami Beach: Near Lakka, ideal for swimming and relaxation.
- Levrechio Beach: Close to Loggos, known for its scenic beauty.
- Erimitis Beach: A secluded spot formed by a cliff collapse in 2007, offering stunning sunset views.(ionian-villas.co.uk, visitpaxos.com, snooksy.substack.com)
️ Historical Highlights
- Venetian Influence: Paxos was under Venetian rule from the 14th century, leaving behind architectural landmarks and a legacy of olive cultivation.(paxosmagic.com)
- Olive Press Museum: Located in Lakka, this museum showcases traditional olive oil production methods.
- Cisterns of Paxos: Built in the 19th century, these structures highlight the island’s historical water storage practices.
Outdoor Activities
- Hiking: Explore trails through olive groves and along the coastline. The path to Erimitis Beach offers breathtaking views.
- Boating: Discover secluded beaches and sea caves, or visit Antipaxos, known for its sandy beaches like Vrika and Voutoumi.
- Snorkeling & Diving: The clear waters around Paxos are perfect for underwater exploration. There are opportunities to see diverse marine life and explore underwater caves.
Villages to Explore
- Lakka: Situated in a natural bay on the northern tip. Lakka is known for its safe harbor. This makes it popular among sailors. The village offers charming streets, local shops, and waterfront tavernas.
- Loggos: A quaint fishing village on the east coast. Loggos is famous for its relaxed atmosphere. It is known for its traditional architecture and excellent seafood restaurants.
- Magazia: Located inland, this village provides a glimpse into traditional island life, with local cafes and a peaceful setting.
Dining & Nightlife
Paxos offers a variety of dining options, from traditional tavernas to upscale restaurants:
- Taverna Vassilis (Lakka): Known for its authentic Greek dishes and warm hospitality.
- Bournaos (Magazia): The oldest café on the island, offering a traditional setting and local delicacies.
- Erimitis Bar & Restaurant: Perched above Erimitis Beach, it’s the perfect spot for a sunset dinner with stunning views.
For nightlife, while Paxos is generally tranquil, you can enjoy live music and cocktails at various bars in Lakka. You can also find bars in Loggos that provide a relaxed evening ambiance.
Local Products & Shopping
- Olive Oil: Produced from the island’s ancient groves, Paxos olive oil is a must-try.
- Handicrafts: Local artisans offer handmade jewelry, ceramics, and textiles, perfect for souvenirs.
- Wine: Sample local wines, especially those from Antipaxos, known for its vineyards.
Getting Around
While Paxos is small, renting a car or scooter can help you explore its hidden gems. Your boat is fundamental for accessing secluded beaches and neighboring Antipaxos.
The bay of Lakka Paxos is a haven for those seeking natural beauty, rich history, and authentic Greek island life. Whether you’re hiking through olive groves, relaxing on a secluded beach, or savoring local cuisine, Paxos promises a memorable experience.
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A change of scenery
The night in Erikoussa was perfect, with us docked at the breakwater, alongside. It was a great opportunity to throw a party for my birthday. We also met with Markus, who was solo sailing in the opposite direction, with his dog, Heinrich. The next day we had two possible options. We could take a shorter leg passing west of Corfu. Alternatively, we could stay inside on the east side, but this would mean a slightly longer leg. The difference wasn’t much. We were starting to look at the fuel level with some concern. So, we decided to take the inner side route. We planned to stop in marina Gouvia on the island of Corfu for a refill. The additional benefit: giving some respite to those passengers who had suffered sea sickness during the two long passages.
Plans seldom survive contact with reality. When we arrived in marina Gouvia, we docked at the fuel dock. We only found out that there was no one. Three different signs invited to call three different phone numbers. None answered. After several attempts, finally someone answered us, and told us that they could have come at 5 pm. This would have completely blasted our schedule, so we decided to try in Corfu, harbor. Having learned the lesson, we called several numbers, to no avail. No one would come and refill us. Having found someone who would have refilled us in Paxos, we decided to skip the stop in Corfu and continue. At least we had nice views of the city, with the impressive bastions of the fortress dominating the houses below. The sea was calm, with initially not much wind. We had the opportunity to make a break and go for a short swim in Lefkimmi Bay. The coast is not too exciting. It is a marshy lowland. The Lefkimmi headland houses some salt flats and continues underwater with a shallow area. This area needs to be carefully avoided. Once we left the head of Asprokavos to our starboard, we were finally exposed to the W wind. We encountered swell. We could make sail for the last leg.
Gaios is as cute as a button, with its harbor sheltered by a crescent shaped islet. We found an easy and good berth alongside at the new pontoon. We had an excellent dinner in one of the few restaurants open out of season. We had the impression that in high season the place must be a real carnage.
Download here the waypoints for this trip – Warning, never use waypoints for navigation without previously validating them on your plotter.
Passage Notes
The passage is approximately 60 M if taken from the inner side. After exiting the habor and clearing to port the shallow area SW of the island, head 17 M on a 96˚ course to reach the narrow separating Corfu from Albania, then heat 3 NM on a 153˚ course to leave the islet of Peristeri and the shoals of Psyllos to starboard. Peristeri is marked by a light [FL R 5S 8M RA REF] and there is a fishing farm marked by a yellow special marker on its N side. Psyllos is unmarked and dangerous. The channel is trafficked by large ferries and cargo ships, and you need to follow the right direction (starboard if going N to S). Ater passing Psyllos, head for 200˚ for another 6 Miles, then head for 163˚ for 4 more miles until you have the Achropolis at the STB beam, then change course for 146˚ in order to clear Cape Asprokavos and reach the open sea, this will be after 17.5 M. The last turn for 174˚ will take you directly to the approach to the N entrance of Gaios, after approx. 11 M.
Haiku of the day
Birthday winds whisper
Fuel elusive, course unfolds
Gaios lights the way -
An off the beaten path anchorage, with restaurants, moorings and protection
Anchoring in Luka Okuklje
Luka Okuklje is an amazing small bay, with a narrow entrance, and offers protection in all wind conditions. It is possible to anchor, but also to find a dock at one of the Konobas. The water is crystal clear, and the vegetation is lush.
A few space houses and some konobas are surrounding the bay. There are some private docks and buoys that you can use for a small fee. The entrance to the bay is very deep. We observed large whirlpools formed by the currents there.
After the deep entrance, the bay becomes shallow. Several submerged rocks and shallows are on the W side. The dock on the E side has large tires as fenders. Outside the summer season there is nothing open there, but this is part of the magic of this place. The private dock on the W side also offers electricity and water for a fee.
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Leaving Korcula for the island of Mljet, less frequented by charter boats during the season
The day after the Bura burst we decided to leave Korčula for the island of Mljet. We considered two options. One was Luka Polace, at the NW side of the island. The other was Uvala Okuklje at the NE end. We thought that the weather was favorable, but still unstable, and decided to get nearer to our final destination, Dubrovnik.
Mljet is less frequented by the charter boats during the season because it is far from most charter bases. The NW end is a national park and a marine protected area. There are two deep bays, Pomena and Polace where you can find good shelter. Remember to buy the park ticket online before entering the reserve. The N coast also offers good anchorages at Luka Sobra, Prozurska Luka and Okuklje.
The stop in Okuklje was refreshing for the crew after a few days of not so easy sea conditions. We had time to relax in a quaint bay, exercise, have good food. We found an easy berth for the night at a private dock.
Download here the waypoints for this trip – Warning, never use waypoints for navigation without previously validating them on your plotter.
Passage Notes
Leaving ACI Marina in Korčula bound E means to find right away several obstacles, currents and variable wind conditions. If you leave the marina on a NE course, you will find a shoal to STBD approximately 5 cables away. It has a charted depth of 4m. After approximately 1 M, change course to 90˚. This maneuver will let us pass to STBD first the Plic Lucnjak IDM. Next comes the islet of Lucnjak. Finally, the islets of Vela and Mala Stupa will be passed. After approximately 2.5 miles on this course, you leave the last islets of Vela (LH W TR FL(4) W 15S) and Mala Sestrica to STB. Then, set the course to 125˚ for a long leg of 25 M. This will aim at the Okuklje approach. The channel is four to five miles wide, and rather protected in most conditions. The bay of Okuklje isn’t very visible. There is a SPM on cape Stoba that can be used as a reference. The entrance of the bay is deep. However, it soon gets quite shallow. It is recommendable to prepare a pilotage plan before enteringAnchoring in Luka Okuklje
Haiku of the day
Charts spread on the deck
New hands learn the skipper’s craft
Mljet’s green shores await -
After a rough crossing to Split and a quiet one to Milna, we needed to make up for the lost miles.
A great learning about decision making processes when planning a passage. The weather forecast was not exciting, with rain squalls, 1.5-2.0 m waves and SE wind 20-25 Kn. At first, we planned to go to Uvala Necujam, a secluded bay in Šolta island.
Robin at the wheel dealing with the weather However, the idea to have a nice dinner in Split prevailed. When we modified the plan, we assumed that we could have docked at the city wall in Split.
That proved wrong, because the wall was exposed to the swell entering the harbor. It is something that we should have checked.
ACI marina Split refused to give us a berth, and the crew was too tired to set up sail again. After a very unpleasant discussion with the ACI marinero, we ended up moored on the outside dock of the marina.
There was not much shelter, and it was a high price to pay. Lessons learned: always think that the first objective is to keep crew and boat safe, all the rest comes after.
ACI Marina Split has several negative reviews due to their attitude, we had it confirmed.
On a positive note: the crew did great with difficult dockings with swell and wind -
After a rough crossing to Split and a quiet one to Milna, we needed to make up for the lost miles.
Making up for the time lost
The short sailing and the stop in Milna were needed. This allowed the crew to get to know the boat better. It also helped them recover from the rough night in Split. We had considered to call in at Marina Palmisana, instead, but it was closed for the season.
We had a firm arrival date in Dubrovnik. The next day we needed to make up for the miles lost the day before. This is why we planned to go all the way to Korcula’s eastern end the next day. Someone on a less tight schedule may want to spend some time in Palmizana. They can enjoy the beautiful bays of those islands.
Once in Korcula we spent one night in Uvala Luka Banja. The next day a strong Bura wind made us choose to find a more comfortable shelter at ACI Marina Korcula. It its a small but excellent marina, and we were allowed an easy alongside mooring. We took the opportunity to visit the city, do laundry, refill the pantry and do some exercise.
Download here the waypoints for this trip – Warning, never use waypoints for navigation without previously validating them on your plotter.
Passage Notes
Just outside Milna there is a sheltered bay where it is easy to set the sails up. But just after that there is a channel between the islands of Solta and Brac. The channel is a choke point. Most of the ferries and fast catamarans pass through it as they head to or come from Split. It is important to keep a good lookout. After the channel, proceed in a straight course at 200˚ for about 8 miles. Continue until the island of Hvar is left to port. Then the channel between Hvar and Palmizana becomes visible. Palmizana is beautiful and it has many anchorages. But today we must continue. We head southeast on a 110˚ course. First, we leave Palmisana to starboard. Then, we pass the islet of Pokolnji Dol (LH W TR FL(1) 4S) to starboard. The route continues on the same course for another 10 M, until the island of Scedro.
It is now time to change course. Head more S on a 120˚ course. This will help you reach the channel that separates the mainland from the island of Korcula.
Once at the entrance of the canal, we set for a more easterly route, 105˚. We continue this course for another 7 M, and we arrive at the approach to our destination: Uvala Luka Banja.
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Wrecked boats found at the shipyard tell a story of careless anchoring.
While at the shipyard I saw several heavily damaged boats, especially catamarans.
I asked around and found that last year there was an intense storm. It threw several boats on lee shores and sank a few others. This was a tough lesson for some charter captains. You should regularly refresh your knowledge about the weather conditions and choose proper anchorage. This is especially true in the light of the climate change.
You need to carefully assess the way you are anchoring and taking shelter. Charter boats often have very few meters of chain, making many anchorage impracticable or unsafe.
Interesting fact: these boats are bought and repaired by people who will sell them on the market. They will look fine, but how much can you trust a boat that has been damaged to such extent?
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Jane & Darcy goes back to sailing after three weeks of shipyard work.
It was finally time to move out of MCI shipyard. Early on Saturday, I set sail from a desert dock. I was single-handed because my second was knocked out by a gastro-intestinal infection. I sailed towards Trogir to meet the rest of the crew. Once we had cleared the Galija LH, we found a nice wind of 14 – 18 Kn. We set up the sails, starting with a broad reach. Then we adjusted to a beam reach. Getting closer to the narrows I grew uncomfortable. The wind was now 24 – 28 Kn and increasing. It was backing rapidly. This forced us to tack. Finally, we started the engine. As we approached Ciova head, we encountered a strong current. It was up to 2-3 Knots. The SE wind was pushing the waves inside the gulf of Kastela. I decided to stay well away from the head, as I saw races and overfalls. The wind had passed 30 Knots by the time we left the cape to STBD. It was great to turn the bow to NW after some 30 minutes of breaking waves straight against our bow.
Proceeding along the S coast of Ciova, the sea conditions improved gradually from moderate to slight. When we entered the gulf of Trogir the situation improved greatly. It improved especially after the Okruk head SLM when the sea was calm.
Docking in Marina Trogir, we discovered it is a canal dock. The strong current we had encountered at the exit of the gulf of Kastela was pushing the water through the canal. This made it riverlike.
Passage Notes
When leaving Split harbour, it can be quite busy. There are shipyards, commercial docks, huge tugs, a petroleum dock, and on the south side several obstacles. You first meet the Plic Silo IDM, then the Heidi Galija LH, followed by the Plic Galia IDM and NCM. Past the NCM it is possible to aim directly at the narrow delimited by Marjan (N) and Ciova (S) heads. Clear the Galija LH and head to the narrow to clear Ciova Head to your STB, then you will be out of the Gulf. Proceed along the coast until you reach the Zaporinovac SLM and head NNW to enter the gulf of Trogir.
Haiku of the day
Charts spread on the deck
New hands learn the skipper’s craft
Mljet’s green shores await
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A busy and convenient shipyard
MCI stands more Marine Club International, however, do not be mistaken, it is a shipyard, not a marina.
Jane & Darcy on the dry dock Once you have set your expectations right, it is a great place to have your boat overhauled. It is incredibly busy. During the peak season, they move around 20 boats per day. There are no facilities because it is a shipyard. You have to take care when you move around. The place is not clean like a marina would be. But the work gets done, honestly, and well.
Refining the deck caulking
Back into the water
Jane & Darcy going back into the water at MCI Split It is always exciting and terrifying to see your boat, your home, hanging from a crane. Everything can go bad in a moment. You don’t know whether you want to see, or it is better to be somewhere else. Everything was good this time. Finally, I managed to stop using precarious ladders to get on and off of our boat.
Jane & Darcy on the hard, ready to be moved.
S/YJane & Darcy 