S/YJane & Darcy

Porto Vromi is one of the very few sheltered anchorages on the north-west coast of Zakynthos and, for anyone planning to explore the spectacular coastline around Navagio, it is probably the most convenient base. Strictly speaking, it is not a harbour but a narrow, deeply indented creek carved into the limestone cliffs, offering good protection in settled weather and a dramatic natural setting.

The approach alone is worth the visit. Towering white limestone cliffs, rising 200 to 300 metres almost vertically from the sea, surround the coastline. Hidden caves, sea arches, tiny coves and inaccessible beaches follow one another for miles, making this one of the most spectacular stretches of coast in the entire Ionian. It is easy to understand why this area has become one of Zakynthos’ main tourist attractions.

Unfortunately, this natural beauty also comes at a price. Porto Vromi has become one of the principal departure points for the countless excursions to Navagio Beach and the surrounding caves. In addition to the organised tour boats, dozens of rental boats depart every morning carrying visitors eager to explore the coastline on their own. From around 10:00 until approximately 17:00 the creek becomes extremely busy, with a constant flow of boats, engine noise and visitors. If you are looking for peace and solitude during these hours, Porto Vromi may not be the place for you.

The anchorage itself is relatively small and anchoring can be challenging due to the limited manoeuvring space and the intense boat traffic. Fortunately, several permanent mooring buoys are available. These are primarily intended for the local operators, but if you ask politely and one is free, they are often happy to let visiting yachts use one. This makes for a much more relaxed stay than trying to anchor in the confined space.

Two separate roads descend from the plateau above, each ending at opposite sides of the creek. Both are occupied by boat rental businesses and excursion operators. Facilities ashore are extremely limited, with only one taverna located on the northern side of the bay. Fortunately, it is an excellent one and well worth a visit after the daytime crowds have dispersed.

And that is precisely when Porto Vromi reveals its true character.

Around five o’clock, almost as if someone had flipped a switch, the last excursion boats head back towards the resorts and silence gradually returns. The turquoise water settles, the echoes of the engines disappear and the magnificent cliffs reclaim the scenery. With no villages nearby, there is virtually no artificial lighting. On a clear night, the stars stretch from horizon to horizon, reflected in the calm waters of the creek, creating one of the most memorable nights at anchor we experienced in Zakynthos.

If you carry a capable dinghy with at least an 8–10 HP outboard, Porto Vromi becomes an ideal base for exploring the coastline independently. The nearby sea caves, arches and secluded coves are easily reached, and navigating them at your own pace is a completely different experience from joining a crowded excursion. Alternatively, if your dinghy is less powerful or you simply prefer not to venture out on your own, you can join one of the organised boat trips or rent one of the locally available 40 HP boats. These are capable of reaching Navagio Bay, although it is essential to check the latest local regulations before setting off. At the time of writing, access to the beach itself remains prohibited because of the continuing risk of rockfalls from the surrounding cliffs. Boats may approach the bay, but landing or entering the restricted area is not permitted.

A word of caution is also appropriate for the rest of this coastline. The spectacular cliffs that make this area so beautiful are constantly subject to erosion. When visiting the small beaches or entering the caves, avoid lingering beneath overhanging rock faces and always maintain a safe distance from the cliffs whenever possible. Rockfalls, although infrequent, are a very real hazard and should never be underestimated.

For us, Porto Vromi perfectly embodies the contrast that defines much of modern Zakynthos. During the day it is vibrant, busy and undeniably commercial. By evening, however, once the last tourist boat has disappeared around the headland, it transforms into one of the most peaceful and atmospheric anchorages on the island. If you can accept a few hours of daytime bustle in exchange for an unforgettable night under one of the darkest skies in the Ionian, Porto Vromi is an anchorage that deserves a place in your itinerary.